Saturday, August 28, 2010

Quedlinburg - a well-hidden German gem

It was in Quedlinburg that in 1945 one of the biggest art thefts in the 20th century occurred. An American soldier had stolen several medieval artifacts from the Collegiate Church of St. Servatius and mailed them back to his home in Texas. For years, these treasures (now worth about $200 million) remained hoarded in obscurity. But after some of the relics surfaced on the international arts market in the late 1980’s, a waterfall of events led to a United States District Court case against the soldier’s brother and sister, who had attempted to sell the stolen items. By 1993, the looted relics had been restored to the Quedlinburg church.


Yes, there still are those gems in Europe that mainstream tourism doesn't know about. One of such places is a picturesque town of Quedlinburg in Saxony-Anhalt, Germany. The reason why it isn't well-known is because it is a bit hard to reach this town by public transportation. One needs to make several train changes, which could be quite confusing. But it is relatively low number of visitors that makes this town feel authentic and relaxing. You won't find hordes of tourist like you do in, say, Florence. This is a true place for a romantic getaway.

Perhaps, the best spot in the town is the castle garden. You can sit on a bench and enjoy a gentle breeze and the views of the red roofs.



Quedlinburg contains a trove of treasures dating back to the 10th century, when Saxon royalty founded the town. In fact, this collection is so large that it encompasses the entire Altstadt (old town) in the form an ancient castle, Romanesque and Gothic churches and over thirteen hundred half-timbered houses built across five centuries.




Unlike medieval “museum towns” like the popular Rothenburg in central Germany, Quedlinburg was not bombed and then rebuilt out of ruins. Since its founding in the 10th century by Saxon royalty, the town has avoided destruction by war or fire. Not many German towns were that lucky.



Much of your time in Quedlinburg will be spent strolling through the winding cobblestone lanes, peeking into hidden courtyards, or snapping photos of countless timbered treasures. And since everything you see is genuine and preserved from bygone eras, you can easily visualize yourself in any time period going back a thousand years.




For an authentic window into the Middle Ages head to the Quedlinburg Castle and the Collegiate Church, both perched on top of a sandstone hill.






Have a cup of espresso or a hearty lunch at a castle restaurant.



Stroll over to the 700-year old Rathaus (city hall) where ivy cascades down the Baroque façade. On the left side of the Rathaus, find the centuries-old statue of Roland. This European mythical hero came to represent a German town’s defiant independence from powerful nobility. The tower right behind Roland has no windows or doors. That is because this tower was used as a city treasury and one had to go past the guards inside the Rathaus in order to enter the treasury. No windows was a big obstacle for thieves.



As you meander through the maze of narrow streets toward the castle hill, check out one of the oldest timbered houses in Germany (dated to the early 1300’s) at Wordgasse #3.



Find little cozy parks to take a break and give your feet some rest.


There are many other European towns and cities noted for their medieval character, but not until you come to Quedlinburg will you discover “the real deal.” If you’re looking for a place with genuine atmosphere and charm right out of the Middle Ages, a town which can tell you unusual stories, or a town where you can discover something new - look no further than this German jewel.

On a practical note: accommodations in Quedlinburg are abundant. Where else can you enjoy staying in a real old timber house for a reasonable price?

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